Finally made it here. It was on my list during my very first visit to Sydney a while ago. Now, after 5 trips to this amazing food city I actually managed to squeeze it in. The restaurant has gone through a 4 month renovation last year and the location inside the overseas passenger terminal boasts great views of both Sydney Harbor Bridge and The Sydney Opera House. Reception is very welcoming but on the cooler side, professional and correct with attention to detail. When we where seated at our table we couldn’t stop noticing the minimalism of the table dressing and we had the feeling we where sitting in an entrance lobby. However, soak in the surroundings and the views and everything comes together. The music…perfect, the acoustics…perfect, the light…perfect. Putting the focus 100% on what comes to the table.
Say no more…
Since we had not much choice in timing for the reservation we opted for the 6:15 PM early seating option with 2 glasses of complementary Charles Heidsieck Champagne. A great start. The wine list is very extensive with an amazing selection of Bubbles and of course all the local favorites.
Food menu wise there are only a few selections to be made, you either take the 6 course menu where you pick one of the two main courses and one of the two desserts on offer. Or you go for the 10 course where you get everything.
Since we had an early flight to Melbourne at 7:00 AM we opted for the 6 courses with a 2.5 hours estimated seating it seemed just right.
The welcome canapés where simple and at first bite seemed rather bland, so we where a bit weary of what was going to come, but it was the fermented shiitake mushrooms that started to develop and lingered for several minutes on my palate that put it in perspective. We knew we where in a good place…its gonna be alright.
The hand harvested seafood “sashimi style” dish was served in a beautiful rock pool. And was again simple but very delicate. The octopus is one of the smallest species I’ve ever seen. And it was full grown. The taste, very subtle yet complex. But it is the local scallops that stand out. So buttery and umami! Paired with a Gruner Veltliner.
The smoked eel cream was our second dish and was amazing, no piece of eel to be detected in the dish but the flavor was just amazingly rich and smokey, the milk shavings acted as cream to soften the rich flavor of the cream. Complemented with the young walnuts this dish shows skills and balance. The local nebiolo rosé is superb and one of the most complex rosé’s I’ve ever had.
The poolish crumpets are of course home made as you would expect. They are acting as a large blini and the cultured cream and smoked salmon roe give you actually everything thats so tasty about caviar but without the $$. Unfortunately it is paired with the same champagne we had as a welcome drink, the waitress didn’t know and the glasses where poured already. A miscommunication between the waiters. No worries, it was good.
The fourth little starter was one of my favorites and instantly made me decide to come back for more. Wauw! The steamed mud crab Chinese style custard comes with a crab broth ( think concentrated bisque consommé ) and is just bursting with flavor, the seasoning is spot on! The lotus seeds are al dente cooked and remind me of delicate palm hearts. Superstar dish this one! Paired with a lightly oaked Chardonnay giving that light buttery, vanilla and coconut flavors. Top!
Hand Harvasted Seafood 
Smoked Eel cream 
Crumpets 
Mudcrab Custard!!
For the mains my table mate and I decided to each choose one of the two options so we actually had the taste of the 10 course menu without the calories. The Maremma duck, and the Smoked pig jowl. The Maremma duck was delicious, although it could do with a bit more crispy skin and slightly more rendered. The star of the main courses is the pig jawl with the fan shell clams, Mane mushrooms and sea cucumber crackling.
Soooo goooood! A dish to come back for. Served with an excellent Pinot noir from Tasmania.
Pig Jowl!!! 
Duck
The desserts are of equal standards Crystalised Oloroso caramel with prunes and the even better White coral, a dessert that reminds me of a super good Rafaello Ferrero Rocher combined with smurfentaart. An evening to remember! Thats for sure! A smart remark from Alan…hey, we did not have any vegetables…the spouses will not be happy.
Caramel 
Coral 
Service : 6/7
Ambience : 6/7
Food: 7/7
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